Mangystau does not immediately reveal itself. At first glance, the vast, arid plains seem desolate, inhabited only by camels and horses grazing over scrubby desert carpeted with jusan, a bitter wormwood shrub that scents the breeze with a heady sage fragrance. For many Kazakhs, this herbaceous aroma elicits the feeling of home, a reminder of their symbiotic connection to these lands where their nomadic ancestors once roamed.
Millions of years ago, the massive Tethys Ocean covered the region of Mangystau until shifting tectonic plates and volcanic activity led to a dramatic recession of the seas, leaving almost no natural water sources behind. What remains is an abundance of fossilized marine life and otherworldly landforms.
In Bozjyra (sometimes spelled Bozzhyra or Boszhira) National Park, head to lookout points along dizzyingly precipitous cliffs. From there, you can see barren, bleached flatlands impaled by skyscrapers of rock, like swords thrust from beneath the surface. Fantastical titles such as “Martian Panorama," "Dragon's Crest," and “Fangs Formation” capture the mystery and brutality of this awe-inducing landscape.
The views continue in Ayrakty, a valley of earthen “castles” that Gaudi might have dreamed up; Tiramisu Canyon, where colorful mineral layers evoke the cocoa red-browns, cakey yellows, and creamy whites of the namesake dessert; and the iconic Bokty Mount, with similarly appetizing stratifications.
A multi-day trek into Mangystau is a rugged experience. Due to flash floods and limited services, the region is a challenge to navigate on one’s own. Hiring a guide or participating in a tour is highly recommended, and tours range from three days to see the highlights to ten days to cover most of the region. Expeditions depart from Aktau, the region’s largest city located on the coast of the Caspian Sea, where the local airport connects to the major cities in Kazakhstan and a small number of nearby international destinations.
Within Mangystau, there are a handful of yurt villages and guesthouses that offer more comfortable stays than the alternative option: camping in cliff shadows. Evenings are best spent relaxing and in good company, feasting on horse sausage and sipping the fermented camel’s milk shubat under a sky full of stars.
— Sarah Siyufy
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Get ready for an adventure! Delta Airlines and Atlas Obscura will soon unveil the top 24 destinations for 2024. Stay tuned!
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