Malawi may be landlocked, but life here revolves around water. The name of the country translates to “flames” or “fire” in Chichewa, referring to the shimmering, warm hues of vast Lake Malawi at sunrise. As Africa’s third largest lake, the body of water stretches down the eponymous country and provides much of the nation’s electricity and livelihoods.
On the lake’s shores, flocks of birds hover over wooden fishing boats hauling the day’s catch, while the 1950s-era MV Ilala ferry transports commuters. Near the ferry’s southernmost port lies the rarely visited alcove of Cape Maclear, a quiet beach town with radiantly white sand and clear waters. The town is accessible only via a bumpy dirt track winding over steep hills, best navigated by motorcycle. Farther north on the ferry’s route sits Nkhata Bay, a forested port town known for its bustling fish markets and rocky bay.
Archaeological sites like the prehistoric Chongoni Rock Art Area—which contains cave paintings dated to the late Stone Age—hint at the country’s distinguished past. Malawi once hosted sprawling kingdoms like the Maravi empire, and many peoples and ethnic groups have passed through it since. The British later occupied the region until Malawi gained independence in 1964. Though often overshadowed by its larger neighbors on the world stage and in number of annual tourists, Malawi is forging its own way by restoring national parks, protecting its lake in the face of climate change, and celebrating its archeological heritage.
It’s possible to traverse the whole country in three days via the local ferry. But head inland on minibuses speeding down dusty roads to see an abundance of protected areas and national parks, including the grasslands of Liwonde and the plateau of Nyika. Unlike those of the Serengeti, the parks are virtually empty of people but teeming with wildlife. Recent conservation projects have reintroduced lions, cheetahs, elephants, and rhinos that had long ago disappeared due to poaching. After touring Liwonde’s vast landscapes, take a boat cruise down the calm currents of the Shire River, passing dense populations of hippos and crocodiles. Because in Malawi, everyone always comes back to the water.
— Kate McMahon
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