Beneath the kelly-green rice paddies and mounds of serrated limestone in the Khammouane province of central Laos, emerald rivers drift for miles underground. The subterranean waters have carved dark stone tunnels over millions of years, flowing from sunlit and sandy cave entrances into the depths of the Earth.
This remote midsection, where the country squeezes between Thailand and Vietnam, is tucked away from the main artery that connects three touristy cities in the bulbous head of Laos. In addition to ornate temples and busy night markets, Khammouane is known for its natural splendor—specifically, its caves. Kong Lor, stretching almost four miles underground and measuring up to 300 feet tall in spots, is the mother of them all. It’s believed to have been discovered in the 16th century, and tourists curious enough to venture south of Vientiane can explore its abyss on canoes paddled by villagers.
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In countless other caves scattered across the province, there are no tour guides—only rock, dirt, water, and the occasional string of prayer flags or shrines. The best way to see this side of Laos is to hop on a motorbike in Thakhek, the provincial capital on the banks of the mighty Mekong. Drive through “Cave Alley” and Nakai-Nam Theun National Park, across the Karst Corridor, and into what’s known as the Limestone Forest, a route almost like a Southeast Asian version of Candy Land, but with mountains and caves instead of lollipops and peppermint sticks.
In addition to the deep lairs of Kong Lor, an elephant-themed cave, and the kitschy rainbow-lit Tham Nang Ene Cave, this circuit also connects the best above-ground sites of Khammouane. Stop by the tiered Song Sou Waterfall, a flooded “ghost” forest, and Buddha sculptures carved into sandstone cliffs right on the side of the road. The route is also dotted with swimming holes like the turquoise-tinted Cool Pool, homey hostels, and no shortage of roadside food stands serving fried rice and noodle soup.
— Olivia Young
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Get ready for an adventure! Delta Airlines and Atlas Obscura will soon unveil the top 24 destinations for 2024. Stay tuned!
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